Nikolle Radi

Figure 2.8 - Radi, N., (2019). 18ct ring with platinum filigree and diamonds

Figure 2.9 - Radi, N., (2019). 18ct Gold ring with intricate platinum filigree

Nikolle Radi is a Russian jeweller, practicing in New York, who makes filigree using platinum wire. Traditionally, filigree in jewellery is curvy, flowy and displays rounded shapes. The difference between Radi's filigree design style and traditional filigree design style, is that Radi's uses filigree wire in a calculated way to create geometric, polygon-like shapes with flat sides and pointy edges/corners. This is something I have not seen before and I really wanted to try.

If one were to look closely at the filigree designs on one of Radi's pieces, the secret of perfectly measure angles and sides would be seen. In a video interview with Radi on the Twist online website, he reveals that the secret to the perfect measurement is to have evenly twisted filigree wire and to use the twists as a marking to make bends (Twist Online 2019). This method sounds interesting and I think that it would be a great way to achieve Islamic geometric shapes fairly simply.

Traditional filigree

When it comes to styles of filigree, I had only found examples of two; European and Indian. Of European, I had only seen pictures and some past students' work as examples, and Indian filigree I had seen in person, mostly because ladies in my family wore traditional Indian gold jewellery with filigree work. European and Indian styles of filigree are similar in that they are smooth and flowy. These kinds of designs can be likened to arabesque.

When learning how to make and use filigree in my third year of study, one of the rules was that if kinks or flat edges are visible then the technique is incorrect. It's very inspiring to see that the work of a jeweller goes against tradition but creates something so unique and beautiful. I am going to be using Radi's method of measuring to create Islamic geometric filigree.