Coins in Bedouin jewellery

Figure 1.8 - Florian, H.,(1978) Bedouin silver jewellery with coins and amber beads

An important function of jewellery to the Bedouin people is that it was a form of investment or redeemable wealth. It was used in business as a means of trading and kept as savings, but most importantly it was given to brides and their families as dowry. (Colyer Ross 1978: 20. According to Colyer Ross, "When coins were first invented, they were worth their weight in what ever metal they were made of". In the region of Bedouin people, many of the coins used to trade were of silver content. 

Because it was used as a form of investment, Bedouin silver jewellery had to have a certified high silver content. For this reason, jewellery pieces incorporated actual silver coins that were used at the time as currency. The coins in the jewellery served as a hallmark to guarantee high silver content. Colyer Ross points out that in some cases, coins were actually melted down to be used to make other elements of jewellery.

It was important that the currencies used were of high silver content. This is why the Bedouins preferred currencies that were from are the Spanish columnar or pillar dollar, British Trade Dollar, Egyptian coins, and the Austrian Maria Theresia Thaler, examples of which, can be seen in the picture above. (Colyer Ross 1978: 113)

Bedouin Jewellery

Figure 1.9 - Florian, H.,(1978) Bedouin silver jewellery with coins and amber beads

Bedouin jewellery is the jewellery made by the people from the nomadic tribe in the middle east and Saudi Arabia. Bedouin jewellery is predominantly made from silver but can also be found in gold or brass. Bedouin jewellery is typically large and dramatic, showing off elements like chains, bells, coins (known in Arabic as Umla), wire-work, hollowed elements and metal beads (see figure 1.9). Traditional Bedouin jewellery is made by hand using basic tools and equipment. 

There is also a variety of precious-stone beads and cabochons, that are obtained from mining and trading. The stones are simple cuts of gemstones such as turquoise, amber and carnelian, coral, agate, and pearls (Colyer Ross 1978:21).

Figure 1.10 - Florian, H.,(1978) Iqd (necklace). Bedouin silver necklace with hemp tie.

Some pieces make use of textiles such as cloth which is used for necklace backings and hemp tie as seen in figure 1.10. It is noticeable that not much attention was paid to precision as most pieces show off imperfections (Colyer Ross 1978: 66-87).

Hand-made items were highly sought after among the Bedouin people and jewellers used basic ancient silversmith tools and techniques to make jewellery by hand (Colyer Ross 1978:63). After doing some research on the Bedouin lifestyle, I think that the jewellery having slight imperfections showed that it was in fact hand made and not a cast or mass-produced item. 

Functions of Bedouin jewellery include indication of status in society, redeemable wealth/insurance and some pieces are related to spiritual mediation and protection against evil.

Bedouin people - Lifestyle and homeland

Image of a Bedouin lady adorned in multiple items of jewellery

The word "Bedouin" is the Arabic word for "nomad". The Bedouin are nomadic tribes located across Saudi Arabia, Jordan, Egypt, Israel, Algeria, Iraq and Palestine.

Their occupation is mostly travelling to trade. The Bedouin were responsible for the transportation of goods to and from the surrounding tribes as well as to Rome, India, East Africa and the Indies. They travelled on camels in caravans across the dessert to trade their goods.

Because they were nomadic, it was essential that all their belongings could travel with them. For this reason, they chose to store wealth/savings in the form of livestock and silver jewellery.



Reference: Bedouin Jewellery in Saudi Arabia by Heather Colyer Ross

Islamic coins - etching technique

Figure 3.16 - Adams, Z., (2019). Acid etching copper coin

The method of acid etching begins with using heat to transfer a resist (printed out on plastic sheet) onto copper plate and placing it into ferric chloride for a few about 3 hours, depending on how deep you want the etch to be. Figure 3.16 shows the copper plate that has the coin design printed (resist) on and is ready for etching.

The etched prototype proved not so successful because the coin did not etch deep enough, but I also did not like the look of the etched metal background of the coin. The background was very uneven and bumpy, which I felt took a lot of attention rather than the words. So I will move on to the next method; piercing and soldering.